Amazon Jungle Tour in Iquitos – Part One

Iquitos

18th March 2014

Iquitos, a surprisingly large town in the very heart of the Amazon rainforest in Peru, is one of the biggest cities in the world that’s unreachable by road. We had sailed down the Amazon river from Colombia to reach it, and now found ourselves in a bizarre town filled with architecture Iquitosthat must have been grand and beautiful once but had been decaying since the rubber boom and now looked strangely sad and lonely. We spent our first day catching up with the irritating basics like laundry and internet banking that get so easily neglected whilst on the road, but at the same time managed to explore some of the town, which brought to colourful reality for my the book I’d been reading before our arrival, Nicholas Shakespeare’s The Vision of Elena Silves. The market port of Belen, the floating wooden houses built on rafts surrounded by thick greenery growing straight on the Iquitosriver’s surface, the bizarre metal house of Casa de Fierro built by Gustave Eiffel and transported to Iquitos by a rubber baron in 1890, all brought the dreamlike pages of Shakespeare’s novel to life and seemed drenched in a surreal and terrible history.

After our catch up day, we wanted to book a tour into the jungle we’d come to see. Our first ‘Amazon tour’ had been a slight disappointment, so we asked Cop, the adorable, motherly Thai owner of our hostal and our new best friend, for a recommendation; and she walked us down the road to the office of Wimba Tours.

The next day, they took us out for a full day tour, starting with two hour’s boat ride down river. En route, our enthusiastic and lovely guide Alfredo would not stop giving us facts, pointing out trees and listing what ailments their sap would cure (everything from tapeworms to diabetes, in most cases). We stopped where the small estuary near Iquitos meets the Amazon itself, Amazon River meeting estuaryforming a dead straight line between the dark water of the estuary, which is turned almost black by the vegetation growing in it, and the tea-coloured brown of the Amazon. Almost everyone on board but us spotted a grey river dolphin, which prompted Alfredo to list all the differences between the grey and pink dolphins. He was such an interesting guide, although unfortunately I can’t remember most of the endless facts he produced for us.

Amazon - Animal Rescue Centre

It had been raining heavily all morning, a welcome break from the rainforest’s humidity, and unfortunately it hadn’t ended by the time we Amazon - Animal Rescue Centre reached our first stop; an animal rescue centre on the edge of the Amazon. Guillermo, the animal carer who runs the shelter, showed us around in the grey drizzle, and at first glimpse we appeared to be standing in an empty, uninteresting clearing. Suddenly, we spotted movement, and at Guillermo’s whistle they came closer: a group of white and brown capuchin monkeys and lanky spider monkeys, swinging playfully from low Amazon - Animal Rescue Centrehanging tree branches and showing off for us. Proximity to the humans who feed them had made the animals bolder, but by no means tame, and some of the monkeys approached us cautiously, trying to check bags for food, although on the whole they hung back and played in the trees.

Besides the monkeys, there were colourful parrots who refused to acknowledge us or move into the rain from the shelter of their hut, and an enormous prehistoric turtle, which sat still on the wet ground with what looked like a smile on it’s bizarre, warty face. We were Amazon - Animal Rescue Centreall most excited by Rosita, a baby sloth who happily let all of us hold her, smiling serenely like a stuffed bear in our arms. She looked animatronic, moving slowly and lazily to scratch her head, holding my  finger with her three claws in a surprisingly strong grip, but she was absolutely adorable and I struggled to hand her back over to Guillermo when the time came to move on.

Amazon - Animal Rescue Centre

One of the last stops at the rescue centre was beside a big, swamp-like pond of dark water covered in green vegetation. Guillermo stuck an arm into the water and wriggled about a bit while we looked on dubiously, trying to work out what could be in the pond. Another turtle? Fish? Amazon - Animal Rescue CentreSuddenly, with a whirl of impossibly quick movement, Guillermo jerked back, yanking something long and dark and thrashing out of the water. It was a huge anaconda, about two and a half meters long, which sat docilely enough once Guillermo had a strong grip on it’s head, but whose strong body writhed slowly around me when I posed for a photo, so that I could feel the strength and silent power in it’s coils. From the grip Guillermo kept on the snake, I could tell it was dangerous, even though they don’t bite, and as much as I love snakes even I was a little scared by such a huge, powerful serpent.

Before leaving, we tried some ‘jungle wine’, a dangerously strong alcohol containing twigs and tree bark which the locals assured us would cure all manor of diseases – they recommended a shot every Amazon - Animal Rescue Centremorning – and watched one of the bolder monkeys steal a piece of fruit and a plastic cup, pretending to drink from it. After a chat with some of the local guys who work at the centre, mainly about the potency of the homemade jungle wine – which we bought a bottle of – it was time to head back to the boat for the next stage of our river tour.

Amazon - Animal Rescue Centre

About Emily Luxton

Award-winning writer and solo female travel blogger on a mission to explore the world through deeper travel. Lover of fun, adventure, food, Harry Potter, hiking, beaches, and chatting about the weather. Can be bought with cake.

31 Comments

  1. That turtle is freaky strange. Love the wildlife shots.

  2. So many beautiful animals you met there except for the snake. Aaaaa! :D

    • I have a weird thing for snakes so actually thought he was pretty – but it’s the biggest one I’ve ever held so it was pretty scary, too! Such a cool experience – especially loved the monkeys :)

  3. My kids would love seeing all of those animals. Sloths are the cutest! And that turtle is wild. What an amazing looking creature.

    • It’s so cool – definitely worth a trip if you’re ever in Peru :)

      Rosita the sloth may be the cutest animal I’ve seen in my life – wish I could have taken her with me!!

  4. The Amazon is always one of those mysterious places that seems like an ambitious trip. How much planning and cost go into getting there and experiencing it to its fullest, do you think? It’s great you got to do this. That turtle is indeed bizarre looking. Cheers!

    • Thanks for commenting! Actually, we were already in South America so it wasn’t too expensive to get into the Amazon – just a flight from Cali to Leticia and a boat from Leticia to Iquitos. I think both were about £50 each. Accommodations in both Leticia and Iquitos were cheap, and then our jungle day tour cost about £40 ish. Flying out of Iquitos was the fastest but most expensive way out – I think that was about £40 again. Fairly expensive compared to our normal travel costs but still quite low! We made the whole thing up as we went along so no planning really!! If you get a chance to visit the Amazon don’t miss it, such a cool and strange place! :)

  5. I fell in love with the rainforest in Costa Rica so visiting the Amazon is definitely on my list. That sloth is adorable!

  6. Bianca Malata (@ItsAllBee)

    Love the last shot with the little monkey. I always get scared with doing shots like that thinking that I would probably get nervous and end up getting scratched by them.

    • He was only a baby and had been raised by humans so was super docile – he didn’t try to scratch or bite at all!! I am a bit wary of getting scratched but I knew this little guy was safe – the other ones we weren’t allowed to cuddle because they were a bit less tame!

  7. Nice photos Emily! Reminded me to my trip to Iquitos (only that I sailed from Yurimaguas, Peru). And I didn´t get to hug a baby sloth :(

  8. I’m dying for a shot of jungle wine – but only one. That monkey seems much friendlier than the one’s I’ve encountered in East Africa. Looking forward to part 2.

    • One is all you need – and I’m definitely not drinking it every morning as recommended by our guide! The monkey was a baby and had been raised by humans which is why he was so friendly, the other monkeys were much wilder and not really up for cuddles :)

  9. This looks like a great trip – so many of the ‘accessible’ Amazon villages are very touristy, but you seem to have got into the real forest.

  10. Thanks for the lovely post Emily! We went to the Amazon in Ecuador and it was great, but I never got to hug a sloth! Now I want to go back!

  11. Like the wildlife shots too. Cool snake and turtle. Another interesting sidenote from the region’s rubber boom history, one that’s both fascinating and tragic.

  12. Ah we didn’t make to Iquitos when we were in Peru :(! However, I feel we missed out after reading your post!

  13. Jon @ jonistravelling.com

    Those animals are awesome, especially the monkey, although he looks unhappy about the photo haha. I love the idea of a city that can’t be reached by road – sounds exotic!

  14. inpursuitofadventureblog

    This looks fantastic! I have always wanted to visit the amazon and hold a baby sloth. Looking forward to see what else you were able to see and do on the tour!

  15. iputmylifeonashelf

    Aw, baby sloth! I hope to meet one some day. They are so adorable.

  16. Bemused Backpacker

    It makes such a difference to a trip when you have a great guide with a ton of facts. Sounds like a great trip!

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